Since there was not much going on in the menswear department, the tailors suggested I make a waistcoat using a basic pattern they have so I could see the techniques they would normally use when making something for a show.
The process was fairly familiar to what I’ve done before so I tried to get as many details from the tailors about how they like to do things and what’s best when making for ballet compared to bespoke or opera.
Front pieces after striking, cutting and thread marking Under collarBack pieces prepared – cb seam sewn and neckline reinforced with silesia(Larger piece) canvas, (bean shape) horsehair chest canvasing, cut so stronger threads run horizontal across body to fill out the chest areaDemetter cut slightly bigger than horsehair to cover its shape edges. All are tacked to the canvas, with fullness put into horshair/demette to push out chestPermanent pad stitches, tacking removedCanvas dart closed – 1 dart leg is cut, dart is closed, fusible holds in place then zig zag stitch over everything, trim fusible neatly and stitch down edgesFuse 1” around pocket opening on front to reinforce fabricAttach canvas and front pieces: there is no dart in fabric front so it must be done carefully following stepsMark pocket position, check both pockets matchWelt pocket cut out and fused – lightweight everywhere, heavy on the welt shape. Cut 2”Above, 3/8” below and sidesChalk welt outline, tack lower welt edge to front, making sure pattern matches when flippedMatches perfectly 🙂Place silesia pocket bag inbetween welt and front seam allowancesFinal pattern matched pocketCut bridal 1 1/2” strip, tack to to breakline while stretching the bridal – this will ensure breakline does not stretch/ become baggyPad stitch bridal and lapel, rolling the fabric while stitching so lapel wants to lay flat against chestPad stitches must flash through to front fabric but be small enough to only be minimally visibletrim canvas to 1/8th inside thread marks along the CF, neckline, armhole. Apply fusibleApply fusible tape to all trimmed edges the herring bone stitch the inside edge to permanently attach (outside edge will be stitched down)Sew collar CB seam, this collar doesnt need iron shaping as the seam shape gives it a lot of shapePad stitch collar canvas to undercollar, trim canvas back to stitch lineFront Lining is attached around the armhle – sewn 1/8″ outside of the stitch line so will cab roll back and the lining is not visibleSew shoulder seams, back stitch collar to neckline (position using the stand)
